Turf Disease is a common problem that occurs in spring and summer and plagues lawn enthusiasts each season. Most people will run out to the local garden center and buy a bag (or two) of expensive fungicide to apply to the disease once it has started to take over. There is a better way.
There are a number of issues that contribute to the infestation of disease. By eliminating these problems, you can reduce the chance of the turf being attacked by disease greatly.
Water - watering deeply and less frequently, the roots of the grass will grow deep into the soil keeping drainage at its optimum. Watering often and for short periods of time keeps the roots at the surface creating a barrier that does not allow the water to drain properly. The root system also dries out fast as the top surface of the soil heats up from the sun quickly. When you water also matters greatly. The best time to water is in the early morning hours. This will allow the turf to absorb the water it can, and the water that is left on the surface will be evaporated by the sun. Watering in the late afternoon or evening is a big cause of disease. The lawn will absorb what it can, and what is left, stays in the thatch and on the blades of grass until the morning. This is like inviting disease over for dinner.
Aerate - Aerating the lawn brings necessary oxygen to the roots of the plants. It also reduces compaction of the soil allowing the roots to grow more easily and healthier. A gas powered lawn aerator, aerating shoes, and/or reducing foot traffic will help to reduce soil compaction.
Thatch- Thatch is a layer of dead matter that forms between the turf and the soil. This is where many diseases originate. Water cannot easily pass through thatch, therefore creating a wet layer at the base of the grass. Use of a Thatching machine or thatching rake will reduce the amount of thatch in the lawn. It will also help the turf to grow thicker and healthier. If you have heavy thatch and thin turf, once you thatch the lawn (Use a gas powered thatching machine, it will save you hours and hours of backbreaking work) be prepared to overseed the lawn. The best time to thatch and seed the lawn is in the fall.
Fertilizer - Fertilizing with high levels of nitrogen and using fertilizers that are not balanced, (ex: 32-4-8 or 25-3-5) can encourage lawn fungus. Use a fertilizer that has a slow release nitrogen in it, or better yet use a balanced organic fertilizer. Chemical based fertilizers generally have a high nitrogen content for that quick green effect. Although Nitrogen can be helpful to certain diseases is can make others grow and spread. Use of an organic fertilizer will give you the same dark green effect by using a balance of many nutrients. You will also fertilize less often with organic products, as they have a slower release.
Fungicides - Fungicides work best as a preventative. By applying a fungicide at a preventative rate (usually half) you can stop a problem in its early stages. When you have full blown disease in the turf many things occur. Disease is rampant, the turf is thin and stressed and now the fungicide must be applied at a curative rate (heavy rate) to stop the disease. Fungicides can actually hasten the return of new healthy grass.
Shade - Shady lawns have a tendency to stay wet for longer periods of time. Most turf grasses also require full sun. This is why it is so hard to get a nice thick turf in the shade. Thinning of large trees and shrubs will allow more light to the turf, helping to reduce disease.
By taking these preventative measures, the lawn will be healthier naturally. By implementing natural care practices we can reduce the amount of chemicals being applied to our lawns, reduce the leaching of these chemicals into our waterways and keep our hard earned money where it belongs, in the bank.
Vera Pappas is author of several articles on organic gardening and environmental issues and is owner of
Green Nation Gardens, suppliers of unique and eco-friendly garden supplies. Visit www.GreenNationGardens.com today.
Showing posts with label lawn maintenance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lawn maintenance. Show all posts
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
Friday, August 1, 2008
Summer Gardening
By this time of year most people have had enough of the Maintenance part of Gardening. It is very exciting in the spring planting new flowers and bulbs, cleaning out the beds to see what new is popping up and that fresh layer of mulch always look great. The fun of spring is long over and now it seems all we do is pull weeds and water to keep things going.
It is officially August and in New Jersey it is hot and humid. The lawns are stressed from lack of water, and some annuals have stretched out and look weedy from the heat.
Now is actually a great time to rejuvenate the garden. A good dose of TerraCycle Lawn Food is a great pick me up for a stressed out lawn. It contains worm castings and other all natural ingredients that can be applied anytime of year. (I would not recommend this with a chemical based fertilizer) TerraCycle also has a product for Gardens and an All purpose Food that is great for houseplants and hanging baskets. It will get your lawn looking great again and perk up your plants.
This time of year is also a great time to get fantastic deals at your local garden center. The garden center is now trying to get rid of their late spring stock to make room for Fall Mums and Asters. The discounts are pretty amazing. I just picked up some flats of Impatiens for $1.00 each. They have been pretty well cared for , but need to get out of those flats. Once you get them into larger pots, hanging baskets or the ground they will grow like crazy. Give them a good shot of organic fertilizer when you put them in and have fresh looking color well into late September. This is an inexpensive way to replace the annuals that are looking shabby.
The big box stores already have in their mums. For me it is way too early. Getting Mums and Asters that are in bloom now, when Fall actually gets here they will be long done blooming. These plants love the cool weather and will hold their blooms longer later in the season.
Try to keep from working during the hottest time of the day. Work in the yard early in the morning, before 10:00 or late in the day, after 4:00. And drink plenty of water, it is easy to get overheated working outside when it is over 90 degrees.
Your lawn will thank you for this burst of nutrients and you can enjoy some fresh new plants.
Put the fun back into your summer gardening.
It is officially August and in New Jersey it is hot and humid. The lawns are stressed from lack of water, and some annuals have stretched out and look weedy from the heat.
Now is actually a great time to rejuvenate the garden. A good dose of TerraCycle Lawn Food is a great pick me up for a stressed out lawn. It contains worm castings and other all natural ingredients that can be applied anytime of year. (I would not recommend this with a chemical based fertilizer) TerraCycle also has a product for Gardens and an All purpose Food that is great for houseplants and hanging baskets. It will get your lawn looking great again and perk up your plants.
This time of year is also a great time to get fantastic deals at your local garden center. The garden center is now trying to get rid of their late spring stock to make room for Fall Mums and Asters. The discounts are pretty amazing. I just picked up some flats of Impatiens for $1.00 each. They have been pretty well cared for , but need to get out of those flats. Once you get them into larger pots, hanging baskets or the ground they will grow like crazy. Give them a good shot of organic fertilizer when you put them in and have fresh looking color well into late September. This is an inexpensive way to replace the annuals that are looking shabby.
The big box stores already have in their mums. For me it is way too early. Getting Mums and Asters that are in bloom now, when Fall actually gets here they will be long done blooming. These plants love the cool weather and will hold their blooms longer later in the season.
Try to keep from working during the hottest time of the day. Work in the yard early in the morning, before 10:00 or late in the day, after 4:00. And drink plenty of water, it is easy to get overheated working outside when it is over 90 degrees.
Your lawn will thank you for this burst of nutrients and you can enjoy some fresh new plants.
Put the fun back into your summer gardening.
Friday, July 4, 2008
Brill Push Reel Mower
The Brill Push Reel Mower is a German made rotary type mower. Remember the old push mowers? They were heavy and back breaking to use, then came the Gas powered mowers and the Reel Type mower became almost obsolete. Sure, you would see an old die hard using one every now and again, but not often. Well the Push Reel mower is back and better than ever!
At one time I had a gas powered push mower, when it died, I hired a lawn service. I used that lawn service for 5 years. I could have bought 10 lawn mowers with the money I spent having someone else do it. We came across the Brill Push Reel Mowers while researching new environmentally friendly products for our retail website. They looked so interesting, I decided to buy one for myself. My neighbors laughed when I told them I bought a Push Reel Mower. I was very excited that I would no longer be contributing to the pollution of our environment and I would be getting a great workout.
When the mower came, my husband put it together, it took about 10 minutes. Then I was off. I had let my landscapers go, so my grass was ready to be cut. I was pleased and surprised at how easy it was to push! It only weighs 17 pounds, so it is actually mush easier to push around my 1/2 acre yard than my old gas mower. It is super easy to turn as well. The sound was so quiet I could have a conversation with my kids while cutting the grass!
The Silent Cut Design reduces wear and tear on the blades. In this system, the reel blade and the bedknife don't come in contact, instead they remain separated by less than a millimeter and shear the grass like scissors. This clean cut also helps the grass recover, because it doesn't mangle the stem or leave a jagged edge. Cutting height ranges from 15mm to 45mm (0.7 inches to 1.8 inches). This lets you cut low enough for the golf course look, and high enough for an average length cut for a wide variety of grass types.
I set the cutting height for 45mm for the first cut. I was worried it may be too short, since it is July and we have not had any decent rainfall in New Jersey in weeks. The grass looks great!
As the owner of a company that promotes Green Practices and sell products that help to reduce the footprint on the environment I am very proud to say I own and use a Brill Razorcut 38.
At one time I had a gas powered push mower, when it died, I hired a lawn service. I used that lawn service for 5 years. I could have bought 10 lawn mowers with the money I spent having someone else do it. We came across the Brill Push Reel Mowers while researching new environmentally friendly products for our retail website. They looked so interesting, I decided to buy one for myself. My neighbors laughed when I told them I bought a Push Reel Mower. I was very excited that I would no longer be contributing to the pollution of our environment and I would be getting a great workout.
When the mower came, my husband put it together, it took about 10 minutes. Then I was off. I had let my landscapers go, so my grass was ready to be cut. I was pleased and surprised at how easy it was to push! It only weighs 17 pounds, so it is actually mush easier to push around my 1/2 acre yard than my old gas mower. It is super easy to turn as well. The sound was so quiet I could have a conversation with my kids while cutting the grass!
The Silent Cut Design reduces wear and tear on the blades. In this system, the reel blade and the bedknife don't come in contact, instead they remain separated by less than a millimeter and shear the grass like scissors. This clean cut also helps the grass recover, because it doesn't mangle the stem or leave a jagged edge. Cutting height ranges from 15mm to 45mm (0.7 inches to 1.8 inches). This lets you cut low enough for the golf course look, and high enough for an average length cut for a wide variety of grass types.
I set the cutting height for 45mm for the first cut. I was worried it may be too short, since it is July and we have not had any decent rainfall in New Jersey in weeks. The grass looks great!
As the owner of a company that promotes Green Practices and sell products that help to reduce the footprint on the environment I am very proud to say I own and use a Brill Razorcut 38.
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Causes of Turf Diseases
Turf Disease is a common problem that occurs in spring and summer and plagues lawn enthusiasts each season. Most people will run out to the local garden center and buy a bag (or two) of expensive fungicide to apply to the disease once it has started to take over. There is a better way.
There are a number of issues that contribute to the infestation of disease. By eliminating these problems, you can reduce the chance of the turf being attacked by disease greatly.
Water - watering deeply and less frequently, the roots of the grass will grow deep into the soil keeping drainage at its optimum. Watering often and for short periods of time keeps the roots at the surface creating a barrier that does not allow the water to drain properly. The root system also dries out fast as the top surface of the soil heats up from the sun quickly. When you water also matters greatly. The best time to water is in the early morning hours. This will allow the turf to absorb the water it can, an the water that is left on the surface will be evaporated by the sun. Watering in the late afternoon or evening is a big cause of disease. The lawn will absorb what it can, and what is left, stays in the thatch and on the blades of grass until the morning. This is like inviting disease over for dinner.
Aerate - Aerating the lawn brings necessary oxygen to the roots of the plants. It also reduces compaction of the soil allowing the roots to grow more easily and healthier. A gas powered lawn aerator, aerating shoes, and/or reducing foot traffic will help to reduce soil compaction.
Thatch- Thatch is a layer of dead matter that forms between the turf and the soil. This is where many diseases originate. Water cannot easily pass through thatch, therefore creating a wet layer at the base of the grass. Use of a Thatching machine or thatching rake will reduce the amount of thatch in the lawn. It will also help the turf to grow thicker and healthier. If you have heavy thatch and thin turf, once you thatch the lawn (Use a gas powered thatching machine, it will save you hours and hours of backbreaking work) be prepared to overseed the lawn. The best time to thatch and seed the lawn is in the fall.
Fertilizer - Fertilizing with high levels of nitrogen and using fertilizers that are not balanced, (ex: 32-4-8 or 25-3-5) can encourage lawn fungus. Use a fertilizer that has a slow release nitrogen in it, or better yet use a balanced organic fertilizer. Chemical based fertilizers generally have a high nitrogen content for that quick green effect. Use of a organic fertilizer will give you the same dark green effect by using a balance of many nutrients. You will also fertilize less often with organic products, as they have a slower release.
Fungicides - Fungicides work best as a preventative. By applying a fungicide at a preventative rate (usually half) you can stop a problem in its early stages. When you have full blown disease in the turf many things occur. Disease is rampant, the turf is thin and stressed and now the fungicide must be applied at a curative rate (heavy rate) to stop the disease. Fungicides can actually hasten the return of new healthy grass.
Shade - Shady lawns have a tendency to stay wet for longer periods of time. Most turf grasses also require full sun. This is why it is so hard to get a nice thick turf in the shade. Thinning of large trees and shrubs will allow more light to the turf, helping to reduce disease.
By taking these preventative measures, the lawn will be healthier naturally. By implementing natural care practices we can reduce the amount of chemicals being applied to our lawns, reduce the leaching of these chemicals into our waterways and keep our hard earned money where it belongs, in the bank.
There are a number of issues that contribute to the infestation of disease. By eliminating these problems, you can reduce the chance of the turf being attacked by disease greatly.
Water - watering deeply and less frequently, the roots of the grass will grow deep into the soil keeping drainage at its optimum. Watering often and for short periods of time keeps the roots at the surface creating a barrier that does not allow the water to drain properly. The root system also dries out fast as the top surface of the soil heats up from the sun quickly. When you water also matters greatly. The best time to water is in the early morning hours. This will allow the turf to absorb the water it can, an the water that is left on the surface will be evaporated by the sun. Watering in the late afternoon or evening is a big cause of disease. The lawn will absorb what it can, and what is left, stays in the thatch and on the blades of grass until the morning. This is like inviting disease over for dinner.
Aerate - Aerating the lawn brings necessary oxygen to the roots of the plants. It also reduces compaction of the soil allowing the roots to grow more easily and healthier. A gas powered lawn aerator, aerating shoes, and/or reducing foot traffic will help to reduce soil compaction.
Thatch- Thatch is a layer of dead matter that forms between the turf and the soil. This is where many diseases originate. Water cannot easily pass through thatch, therefore creating a wet layer at the base of the grass. Use of a Thatching machine or thatching rake will reduce the amount of thatch in the lawn. It will also help the turf to grow thicker and healthier. If you have heavy thatch and thin turf, once you thatch the lawn (Use a gas powered thatching machine, it will save you hours and hours of backbreaking work) be prepared to overseed the lawn. The best time to thatch and seed the lawn is in the fall.
Fertilizer - Fertilizing with high levels of nitrogen and using fertilizers that are not balanced, (ex: 32-4-8 or 25-3-5) can encourage lawn fungus. Use a fertilizer that has a slow release nitrogen in it, or better yet use a balanced organic fertilizer. Chemical based fertilizers generally have a high nitrogen content for that quick green effect. Use of a organic fertilizer will give you the same dark green effect by using a balance of many nutrients. You will also fertilize less often with organic products, as they have a slower release.
Fungicides - Fungicides work best as a preventative. By applying a fungicide at a preventative rate (usually half) you can stop a problem in its early stages. When you have full blown disease in the turf many things occur. Disease is rampant, the turf is thin and stressed and now the fungicide must be applied at a curative rate (heavy rate) to stop the disease. Fungicides can actually hasten the return of new healthy grass.
Shade - Shady lawns have a tendency to stay wet for longer periods of time. Most turf grasses also require full sun. This is why it is so hard to get a nice thick turf in the shade. Thinning of large trees and shrubs will allow more light to the turf, helping to reduce disease.
By taking these preventative measures, the lawn will be healthier naturally. By implementing natural care practices we can reduce the amount of chemicals being applied to our lawns, reduce the leaching of these chemicals into our waterways and keep our hard earned money where it belongs, in the bank.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
Lawn Maintenance
Maintaining a nice green yard can be a chore. Cutting, fertilizing, weed,insect and disease control, where does it end?
Maintaining your yard can be simple... Go Organic!
The use of organic products on the lawn take all the guess work out. By using natural products that come from the earth, you don't need a chemistry degree. Organic fertilizers are naturally balanced, easily absorbed and leave no residual chemicals that are harmful to people, pets, water or wildlife.
Compost is also another great way to keep your lawn healthy naturally. By spreading a thin layer of compost over the yard, you are putting back valuable, natural nutrients into the ground.
Using natural products on your lawn, the turf will become healthier and stronger, thereby becoming disease and insect resistant naturally. The healthier the turf the easier it is for the lawn to resist infestations. The lawn will also have less weeds. A strong thick turf will choke out weeds. If the grass is thick, the sun can't reach the weeds seeds, and they simply don't germinate.
Using a mulching lawn mower or a push reel mower is actually healthier for the lawn than bagging the grass. By leaving clippings (not when the grass is long) on the lawn, it acts as a natural fertilizer as the grass decomposes.
Turf that is strong and healthy will also be more drought resistant than weak, stressed turf.
Organic fertilizers generally need to be used less frequently than traditional chemical fertilizers and most can be applied anytime of the season, even in summer.
So, with that said, I've just cut down your lawn chores by about half. By using organic products, not only are you going to have a beautiful, lush lawn naturally...you will have the time to enjoy it!
Maintaining your yard can be simple... Go Organic!
The use of organic products on the lawn take all the guess work out. By using natural products that come from the earth, you don't need a chemistry degree. Organic fertilizers are naturally balanced, easily absorbed and leave no residual chemicals that are harmful to people, pets, water or wildlife.
Compost is also another great way to keep your lawn healthy naturally. By spreading a thin layer of compost over the yard, you are putting back valuable, natural nutrients into the ground.
Using natural products on your lawn, the turf will become healthier and stronger, thereby becoming disease and insect resistant naturally. The healthier the turf the easier it is for the lawn to resist infestations. The lawn will also have less weeds. A strong thick turf will choke out weeds. If the grass is thick, the sun can't reach the weeds seeds, and they simply don't germinate.
Using a mulching lawn mower or a push reel mower is actually healthier for the lawn than bagging the grass. By leaving clippings (not when the grass is long) on the lawn, it acts as a natural fertilizer as the grass decomposes.
Turf that is strong and healthy will also be more drought resistant than weak, stressed turf.
Organic fertilizers generally need to be used less frequently than traditional chemical fertilizers and most can be applied anytime of the season, even in summer.
So, with that said, I've just cut down your lawn chores by about half. By using organic products, not only are you going to have a beautiful, lush lawn naturally...you will have the time to enjoy it!
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