We've always had a dog and for as long as I can remember I have been cleaning up dog poop. Everyday I get my plastic shopping bag and a shovel and patrol the yard. I had never given it much thought until recently. That's a lot of plastic bags filled with poop that is going to the land fill never to decompose.
Composting has also always been a part of our lifestyle, but poop was the one thing we couldn't put in our regular composter. Now Vermi-composting has come along. What a great way to recycle nature's waste. Tumbleweed Pet Poo Compost Maker is a mini worm farm composter. The Tumbleweed Pet Poo Compost Maker consists of two sturdy nesting boxes with a lid, which form a neat, compact portable unit. The worms eat and breed in the top box. This has a perforated base to allow any liquid waste to drain through to the bottom (collector) box. The "worm poo" or worm castings remain in the top box and can be harvested as desired. The bottom or catcher box collects the valuable liquid waste which can be diluted and used as a fertilizer on your garden.
The Tumbleweed Pet Poo Converter will handle, on average, the droppings of two medium dogs. However, this will vary with age, diet, exercise and breed of dog. (Think Chihuahua vs. St Bernard). The greater the amount of droppings recycled through the Pet Poo Converter, the quicker the level of castings will build up. The castings can then be easily harvested, as per the instructions, and used around the flower garden or in potting mixes.
There is no difficulty in getting the worms to eat dog droppings. Commercial worm farmers rear their worms on manure. However it is not possible to mix diets. They must be fed exclusively on pet poo. If you want to recycle vegetable scraps you must set up a separate farm.
This is the best thing going. Farmers have been using manure for hundreds of years to amend the soil. It is super rich in nutrients. The worm castings and the tea that is made from your dog's poop is a great return on your investment. Think of all the money you spend on dog food, and all the money you will save on fertilizer!
Friday, June 27, 2008
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Causes of Turf Diseases
Turf Disease is a common problem that occurs in spring and summer and plagues lawn enthusiasts each season. Most people will run out to the local garden center and buy a bag (or two) of expensive fungicide to apply to the disease once it has started to take over. There is a better way.
There are a number of issues that contribute to the infestation of disease. By eliminating these problems, you can reduce the chance of the turf being attacked by disease greatly.
Water - watering deeply and less frequently, the roots of the grass will grow deep into the soil keeping drainage at its optimum. Watering often and for short periods of time keeps the roots at the surface creating a barrier that does not allow the water to drain properly. The root system also dries out fast as the top surface of the soil heats up from the sun quickly. When you water also matters greatly. The best time to water is in the early morning hours. This will allow the turf to absorb the water it can, an the water that is left on the surface will be evaporated by the sun. Watering in the late afternoon or evening is a big cause of disease. The lawn will absorb what it can, and what is left, stays in the thatch and on the blades of grass until the morning. This is like inviting disease over for dinner.
Aerate - Aerating the lawn brings necessary oxygen to the roots of the plants. It also reduces compaction of the soil allowing the roots to grow more easily and healthier. A gas powered lawn aerator, aerating shoes, and/or reducing foot traffic will help to reduce soil compaction.
Thatch- Thatch is a layer of dead matter that forms between the turf and the soil. This is where many diseases originate. Water cannot easily pass through thatch, therefore creating a wet layer at the base of the grass. Use of a Thatching machine or thatching rake will reduce the amount of thatch in the lawn. It will also help the turf to grow thicker and healthier. If you have heavy thatch and thin turf, once you thatch the lawn (Use a gas powered thatching machine, it will save you hours and hours of backbreaking work) be prepared to overseed the lawn. The best time to thatch and seed the lawn is in the fall.
Fertilizer - Fertilizing with high levels of nitrogen and using fertilizers that are not balanced, (ex: 32-4-8 or 25-3-5) can encourage lawn fungus. Use a fertilizer that has a slow release nitrogen in it, or better yet use a balanced organic fertilizer. Chemical based fertilizers generally have a high nitrogen content for that quick green effect. Use of a organic fertilizer will give you the same dark green effect by using a balance of many nutrients. You will also fertilize less often with organic products, as they have a slower release.
Fungicides - Fungicides work best as a preventative. By applying a fungicide at a preventative rate (usually half) you can stop a problem in its early stages. When you have full blown disease in the turf many things occur. Disease is rampant, the turf is thin and stressed and now the fungicide must be applied at a curative rate (heavy rate) to stop the disease. Fungicides can actually hasten the return of new healthy grass.
Shade - Shady lawns have a tendency to stay wet for longer periods of time. Most turf grasses also require full sun. This is why it is so hard to get a nice thick turf in the shade. Thinning of large trees and shrubs will allow more light to the turf, helping to reduce disease.
By taking these preventative measures, the lawn will be healthier naturally. By implementing natural care practices we can reduce the amount of chemicals being applied to our lawns, reduce the leaching of these chemicals into our waterways and keep our hard earned money where it belongs, in the bank.
There are a number of issues that contribute to the infestation of disease. By eliminating these problems, you can reduce the chance of the turf being attacked by disease greatly.
Water - watering deeply and less frequently, the roots of the grass will grow deep into the soil keeping drainage at its optimum. Watering often and for short periods of time keeps the roots at the surface creating a barrier that does not allow the water to drain properly. The root system also dries out fast as the top surface of the soil heats up from the sun quickly. When you water also matters greatly. The best time to water is in the early morning hours. This will allow the turf to absorb the water it can, an the water that is left on the surface will be evaporated by the sun. Watering in the late afternoon or evening is a big cause of disease. The lawn will absorb what it can, and what is left, stays in the thatch and on the blades of grass until the morning. This is like inviting disease over for dinner.
Aerate - Aerating the lawn brings necessary oxygen to the roots of the plants. It also reduces compaction of the soil allowing the roots to grow more easily and healthier. A gas powered lawn aerator, aerating shoes, and/or reducing foot traffic will help to reduce soil compaction.
Thatch- Thatch is a layer of dead matter that forms between the turf and the soil. This is where many diseases originate. Water cannot easily pass through thatch, therefore creating a wet layer at the base of the grass. Use of a Thatching machine or thatching rake will reduce the amount of thatch in the lawn. It will also help the turf to grow thicker and healthier. If you have heavy thatch and thin turf, once you thatch the lawn (Use a gas powered thatching machine, it will save you hours and hours of backbreaking work) be prepared to overseed the lawn. The best time to thatch and seed the lawn is in the fall.
Fertilizer - Fertilizing with high levels of nitrogen and using fertilizers that are not balanced, (ex: 32-4-8 or 25-3-5) can encourage lawn fungus. Use a fertilizer that has a slow release nitrogen in it, or better yet use a balanced organic fertilizer. Chemical based fertilizers generally have a high nitrogen content for that quick green effect. Use of a organic fertilizer will give you the same dark green effect by using a balance of many nutrients. You will also fertilize less often with organic products, as they have a slower release.
Fungicides - Fungicides work best as a preventative. By applying a fungicide at a preventative rate (usually half) you can stop a problem in its early stages. When you have full blown disease in the turf many things occur. Disease is rampant, the turf is thin and stressed and now the fungicide must be applied at a curative rate (heavy rate) to stop the disease. Fungicides can actually hasten the return of new healthy grass.
Shade - Shady lawns have a tendency to stay wet for longer periods of time. Most turf grasses also require full sun. This is why it is so hard to get a nice thick turf in the shade. Thinning of large trees and shrubs will allow more light to the turf, helping to reduce disease.
By taking these preventative measures, the lawn will be healthier naturally. By implementing natural care practices we can reduce the amount of chemicals being applied to our lawns, reduce the leaching of these chemicals into our waterways and keep our hard earned money where it belongs, in the bank.
Friday, June 20, 2008
Jora Composter, Sweeping the Nation
Composting is coming to the forefront of the Green Revolution. It is a great and easy way to reduce the amount of waste that goes into our landfills. The Jora Composter from
The Jora Composter comes in two sizes the JK125 and the JK270 and can be either free standing or wall mounted. Ordinary kitchen waste, such as food scraps, egg shells, meats, etc. can be put in. You can also put in cardboard, shredded paper, and animal waste. It is very well constructed and strong. With its insulation you can compost year round! It reaches 160 degrees for fast, efficient composting. With other composters, once winter sets in the compost won’t break down.
Both sizes of the Jora have two chambers so you are constantly making fresh compost. Using the Jora JK125, the average 4-6 person household will keep over 10 pounds of waste out of the landfill each week! And that’s just kitchen waste. That amount will go up if you compost things like dryer lint, vacuum cleaner dust, shredded paper and more. In
What do you do with compost? Compost is excellent as an amendment for the lawn, added to flower beds, and there is nothing better for the vegetable garden. It is very nutrient rich and acts as a fertilizer. This will reduce or eliminate altogether the need for chemical fertilizers in your yard. Compost will make your plants, trees and shrubs healthier naturally. The nutrients also make them more insect and disease resistant.
Composting is an all around great thing to do for the environment and Jora Composters are the #1 way to do it!
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Spider mites
As the hot summer months are approaching so are troublesome Spider Mites. Spider Mites are very small, about the size of a grain of pepper. There are many varieties of Mites. Some attack Evergreens, while others will attack deciduous trees, shrubs, flowers and gardens. One of the most dreaded are the Spruce Spider Mite. They will attack over 40 species of conifers.
Spider Mites prefer the hot, dry weather of the summer months. They can grow from egg to adult very quickly and they lay many dozen eggs before their life cycle is over. This allows the Mites to do a lot of damage to a tree in a short amount of time. These eggs will winter over on the plant and emerge the following year. Spider Mites are an insect, that will pierce the tree with its mouth and literally suck the life out of the tree.
Spider Mites are hard to detect because of their size. There are two relatively easy ways to find them, however. Spider Mites create a webbing at the bottom of needles and branches. It is most easily detected in the morning when there is dew on the plant. The second way is to take a white piece of paper or paper plate, stick it under the branches and shake the branch. If there are Mites, they will appear as brown specks on the paper.
It is important to check susceptible plants during the summer months when Mites are most active. They are easiest to control when caught early. Spider Mites will often return to the same plant year after year. A good Preventative Maintenance Program is a good choice for controlling these insects.
The most effective and non-toxic way to control them is by spraying a Horticultural Oil on them. Horticultural Oil comes in two forms. A Dormant Oil is sprayed from late fall to the early spring months when the plant is dormant and kills any over wintering eggs. During the summer months an All Seasons Horticultural Oil can be sprayed to kill active Mites. Bonide has an Oil that works wonders on Mites and many other insects, is safe and pleasant to use. Bonide also has a Certified Organic product called Bio-Neem. This is great if you have an infestation in your garden, as it can be applied up to the day of harvest.
If you want to protect your plants, shrubs and trees, spray Dormant Oil every winter season to kill all sorts of over-wintering insects, especially the Spider Mite. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Spider Mites prefer the hot, dry weather of the summer months. They can grow from egg to adult very quickly and they lay many dozen eggs before their life cycle is over. This allows the Mites to do a lot of damage to a tree in a short amount of time. These eggs will winter over on the plant and emerge the following year. Spider Mites are an insect, that will pierce the tree with its mouth and literally suck the life out of the tree.
Spider Mites are hard to detect because of their size. There are two relatively easy ways to find them, however. Spider Mites create a webbing at the bottom of needles and branches. It is most easily detected in the morning when there is dew on the plant. The second way is to take a white piece of paper or paper plate, stick it under the branches and shake the branch. If there are Mites, they will appear as brown specks on the paper.
It is important to check susceptible plants during the summer months when Mites are most active. They are easiest to control when caught early. Spider Mites will often return to the same plant year after year. A good Preventative Maintenance Program is a good choice for controlling these insects.
The most effective and non-toxic way to control them is by spraying a Horticultural Oil on them. Horticultural Oil comes in two forms. A Dormant Oil is sprayed from late fall to the early spring months when the plant is dormant and kills any over wintering eggs. During the summer months an All Seasons Horticultural Oil can be sprayed to kill active Mites. Bonide has an Oil that works wonders on Mites and many other insects, is safe and pleasant to use. Bonide also has a Certified Organic product called Bio-Neem. This is great if you have an infestation in your garden, as it can be applied up to the day of harvest.
If you want to protect your plants, shrubs and trees, spray Dormant Oil every winter season to kill all sorts of over-wintering insects, especially the Spider Mite. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Friday, June 13, 2008
Grass Cutting, Green Options
Grass Cutting in many parts of the nation has become a huge business. With our hectic, over scheduled lives most of us choose to let someone else do the chore of cutting our grass.
The Landscaping industry in general is a wonderful business. They create beautiful landscapes, install tress, shrubs, plants and flowers. This enhances our environment and beautifies our homes. There are a few things about the industry that is negating all the positive work they do.
Grass cutting is a big part of the business. Everyday, 5 days a week, they drive from home to home, get on their gas guzzling mowers, start up their gas powered line trimmers and blowers. They probably spend no more than 30 minutes on average at a home. Then they are back in their vehicles and on to the next house. This is an extreme amount of gas usage from the machines and the vehicles and an extreme amount of ozone destroying pollution.
We can reduce the amount of pollution going into our atmosphere if we make the time to cut our own grass, in a non-polluting way. There are more and more rechargeable mowers and trimmers coming onto the market. Most of these rechargeable mowers will cut about 1/3 of an acre on one charge. This will accommodate many residential lawns. This however still takes energy. There is one option that takes nothing more than human energy...a rotary mower.
These mowers have come a long way in recent years. They used to be heavy, awkward and required sharpening often. The rotary mowers of today are lightweight, ergonomically designed, and the blades require little sharpening. These mowers are easy to use, less expensive than traditional gas powered mowers and lawn cutting services.
Rotary mower pricing starts around $90.00 US dollars and can go as high as $300 US dollars. On the better models bagging attachments are available. The Brill Razorcut 38 Push Reel Mower is the best I've come across. The blades only require sharpening once every ten years or so. A bagging option is available for about $50.00 US dollars. They are lightweight and have a smooth easy cutting action, even through thick turf.
The way a rotary lawn mower cuts is also better for the turf. It cuts the turf with scissor like motion, leaving a clean cut. A gas powered mower blade spins at a high rate of speed pulling the grass up and slicing it. If the blade is not sharp, it tears the turf. You can tell if the blade is not sharp by the white edges at the top of the grass that looks like split ends.
Maybe we as a nation would be a little healthier too, if we cut our own grass. So many people live sedate lives now more than ever. By cutting our own lawns with environmentally friendly equipment we are not only improving our planets health, but improving our own as well.
The Landscaping industry in general is a wonderful business. They create beautiful landscapes, install tress, shrubs, plants and flowers. This enhances our environment and beautifies our homes. There are a few things about the industry that is negating all the positive work they do.
Grass cutting is a big part of the business. Everyday, 5 days a week, they drive from home to home, get on their gas guzzling mowers, start up their gas powered line trimmers and blowers. They probably spend no more than 30 minutes on average at a home. Then they are back in their vehicles and on to the next house. This is an extreme amount of gas usage from the machines and the vehicles and an extreme amount of ozone destroying pollution.
We can reduce the amount of pollution going into our atmosphere if we make the time to cut our own grass, in a non-polluting way. There are more and more rechargeable mowers and trimmers coming onto the market. Most of these rechargeable mowers will cut about 1/3 of an acre on one charge. This will accommodate many residential lawns. This however still takes energy. There is one option that takes nothing more than human energy...a rotary mower.
These mowers have come a long way in recent years. They used to be heavy, awkward and required sharpening often. The rotary mowers of today are lightweight, ergonomically designed, and the blades require little sharpening. These mowers are easy to use, less expensive than traditional gas powered mowers and lawn cutting services.
Rotary mower pricing starts around $90.00 US dollars and can go as high as $300 US dollars. On the better models bagging attachments are available. The Brill Razorcut 38 Push Reel Mower is the best I've come across. The blades only require sharpening once every ten years or so. A bagging option is available for about $50.00 US dollars. They are lightweight and have a smooth easy cutting action, even through thick turf.
The way a rotary lawn mower cuts is also better for the turf. It cuts the turf with scissor like motion, leaving a clean cut. A gas powered mower blade spins at a high rate of speed pulling the grass up and slicing it. If the blade is not sharp, it tears the turf. You can tell if the blade is not sharp by the white edges at the top of the grass that looks like split ends.
Maybe we as a nation would be a little healthier too, if we cut our own grass. So many people live sedate lives now more than ever. By cutting our own lawns with environmentally friendly equipment we are not only improving our planets health, but improving our own as well.
Monday, June 9, 2008
Hard Plastics Recycling
Hard Plastics Recycling is something most of us don't consider. We think about cans, bottles and paper.
Recently a local Boy Scout Troup in our area provided a hard plastics pick up to their community. Hard plastics are items like: Plastic lawn furniture, kids molded plastic play sets, 5 gallon water bottles, etc. Any large hard plastic items. They sent out fliers, collected these items on a particular date and took them to the township Public Works Facility, where from there it was taken by the township to the County Recycling Facility. They collected over 500 pounds of hard plastic that would have ended up in the dump!
It does take some effort on our part to recycle hard plastics, however a quick trip to the Township Public Works Dept. will keep these items out of our landfills. They can then be recycled and turned into other useful products, like Polywood Furniture. By asking our local municipalities, maybe they will offer one or two pick ups per year. By recycling these hard plastics we can save valuable space in our landfills.
These young boys made a difference in our community and our environment. We should all follow their example. If everyone nationwide would make this small extra effort to recycle, the effects would be staggering. Reduce, Reuse, Recycle!
Recently a local Boy Scout Troup in our area provided a hard plastics pick up to their community. Hard plastics are items like: Plastic lawn furniture, kids molded plastic play sets, 5 gallon water bottles, etc. Any large hard plastic items. They sent out fliers, collected these items on a particular date and took them to the township Public Works Facility, where from there it was taken by the township to the County Recycling Facility. They collected over 500 pounds of hard plastic that would have ended up in the dump!
It does take some effort on our part to recycle hard plastics, however a quick trip to the Township Public Works Dept. will keep these items out of our landfills. They can then be recycled and turned into other useful products, like Polywood Furniture. By asking our local municipalities, maybe they will offer one or two pick ups per year. By recycling these hard plastics we can save valuable space in our landfills.
These young boys made a difference in our community and our environment. We should all follow their example. If everyone nationwide would make this small extra effort to recycle, the effects would be staggering. Reduce, Reuse, Recycle!
Sunday, June 8, 2008
Low Maintenance Gardens
Gardening consumers are always looking for low maintenance. Plants and shrubs they can just put in the ground and forget about. That process does not exist. There are plants and shrubs that require less care than others, however. What makes a garden low maintenance?
Creating low maintenance gardens first takes some thought. What may be a chore to you may be a joy to another. Think of the things you enjoy doing in your garden and expand from there. If you don't enjoy raking leaves, plant evergreens. If you don't like pruning, plant slow growing shrub material. If you don't like planting annual flowers every year, plant perennials.
Researching plants growth habits is very important for a low maintenance garden. You'll want to choose plants that grow slowly and require little pruning. A formal garden is not a good choice for low maintenance. Perennials are a great way to add color to your garden. They come back bigger and better each year with little effort on your part.
Another way to make your garden low maintenance is the way you fertilize. A good organic fertilizer usually gets applied less frequently than a chemical fertilizer. For example, the famous liquid blue fertilizer recommends feeding once per week throughout the growing season. Definitely not low maintenance! Organic fertilizers can be applied as little as twice per season. Once in spring and once in fall (depending on variety). They generally have a slow release and last much longer with better nutrient quality and uptake.
Using good quality garden tools can also make your garden less work. Good, sharp tools will make your jobs easier and take less time.
Mulching your garden in the spring is a must. It is work, however, once it is done it will save you time and money. You will save time weeding because the mulch will keep the weed seeds from germinating and you will save money on your water bill because the mulch helps to retain moisture around the plants.
All gardens need food and water to survive. There are many plants that are drought tolerant once established. This does not mean they never need watering. It means they can tolerate dryer conditions.
Planning is the key to a good low maintenance garden. Once your garden is planted, using the proper tools and fertilizers will minimize work.
Creating low maintenance gardens first takes some thought. What may be a chore to you may be a joy to another. Think of the things you enjoy doing in your garden and expand from there. If you don't enjoy raking leaves, plant evergreens. If you don't like pruning, plant slow growing shrub material. If you don't like planting annual flowers every year, plant perennials.
Researching plants growth habits is very important for a low maintenance garden. You'll want to choose plants that grow slowly and require little pruning. A formal garden is not a good choice for low maintenance. Perennials are a great way to add color to your garden. They come back bigger and better each year with little effort on your part.
Another way to make your garden low maintenance is the way you fertilize. A good organic fertilizer usually gets applied less frequently than a chemical fertilizer. For example, the famous liquid blue fertilizer recommends feeding once per week throughout the growing season. Definitely not low maintenance! Organic fertilizers can be applied as little as twice per season. Once in spring and once in fall (depending on variety). They generally have a slow release and last much longer with better nutrient quality and uptake.
Using good quality garden tools can also make your garden less work. Good, sharp tools will make your jobs easier and take less time.
Mulching your garden in the spring is a must. It is work, however, once it is done it will save you time and money. You will save time weeding because the mulch will keep the weed seeds from germinating and you will save money on your water bill because the mulch helps to retain moisture around the plants.
All gardens need food and water to survive. There are many plants that are drought tolerant once established. This does not mean they never need watering. It means they can tolerate dryer conditions.
Planning is the key to a good low maintenance garden. Once your garden is planted, using the proper tools and fertilizers will minimize work.
Saturday, June 7, 2008
Eco- living...Eco-chic
It seems to me that the alarmist newscasters of the nation finally picked a subject worthy of their extreme reporting tactics.
All the press about Global Warming, Icebergs melting, Overtaxed Landfills, etc., etc. seems to have sunken in. The general population seems to be getting on the "Green Bandwagon". Even Wal-Mart is getting in on the act.
Is it just Chic to be "Green"? Or it this the lasting change and commitment we need to make for our environments future? I guess only time will tell.
All the press about Global Warming, Icebergs melting, Overtaxed Landfills, etc., etc. seems to have sunken in. The general population seems to be getting on the "Green Bandwagon". Even Wal-Mart is getting in on the act.
Is it just Chic to be "Green"? Or it this the lasting change and commitment we need to make for our environments future? I guess only time will tell.
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
Caring For Your Roses
Roses are one of the most beautiful flowers in the garden. They can also be the most difficult to grow. Caring for roses may take some time, but the rewards are worth it. There are many, many different types of Roses. Tea, Grandiflora, Floribunda, Old English, Ramblers, Climbers, Miniature, etc. Many of the newer hybrid varieties will bloom off and on throughout the growing season, while others have one spectacular show, with intermittent flowers later on.
Roses have very particular needs. Roses need a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight per day. They also like light, well drained soil. The soil around their roots should be kept loose by cultivating often. This brings necessary oxygen to the roots of the plants. They also like to be fed a good organic fertilizer regularly and mulched around the base of the plant to help keep the roots cool in the heat of summer and warm in winter.
Roses also need regular care to keep insects and disease at bay. An insecticidal soap spray will keep away Aphids and Whiteflies. An organic fungicide spray will keep away Black spot, a disease very common to roses. Watering the soil around the Rose rather than the foliage is also a good prevention against Black Spot. If you keep a scheduled maintenance for insect and disease prevention, the care seems very easy. If one waits until there is an infestation of one sort or another, it is much more difficult to eradicate the problem. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure definitely applies.
When pruning your Roses, or simply clipping some for a vase, be sure to use good sharp pruning shears. Dull shears can tear the stems, leaving ugly dark marks. It also leaves a larger open wound for disease and insects to feast on. It can even inhibit new growth. When pruning a Rose, prune just above a leaf. This will encourage the plant to grow bushy and thick. Leaving long stems will make the plant lanky. It is also important to prune out any old dead canes. Depending on the type of Rose, how they are pruned and cut back for the winter will vary. Check the instructions that come with the plant.
Roses have been revered by many generations of gardeners and non-gardeners alike. The beauty of Roses will enhance the look of your home year after year.
Roses have very particular needs. Roses need a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight per day. They also like light, well drained soil. The soil around their roots should be kept loose by cultivating often. This brings necessary oxygen to the roots of the plants. They also like to be fed a good organic fertilizer regularly and mulched around the base of the plant to help keep the roots cool in the heat of summer and warm in winter.
Roses also need regular care to keep insects and disease at bay. An insecticidal soap spray will keep away Aphids and Whiteflies. An organic fungicide spray will keep away Black spot, a disease very common to roses. Watering the soil around the Rose rather than the foliage is also a good prevention against Black Spot. If you keep a scheduled maintenance for insect and disease prevention, the care seems very easy. If one waits until there is an infestation of one sort or another, it is much more difficult to eradicate the problem. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure definitely applies.
When pruning your Roses, or simply clipping some for a vase, be sure to use good sharp pruning shears. Dull shears can tear the stems, leaving ugly dark marks. It also leaves a larger open wound for disease and insects to feast on. It can even inhibit new growth. When pruning a Rose, prune just above a leaf. This will encourage the plant to grow bushy and thick. Leaving long stems will make the plant lanky. It is also important to prune out any old dead canes. Depending on the type of Rose, how they are pruned and cut back for the winter will vary. Check the instructions that come with the plant.
Roses have been revered by many generations of gardeners and non-gardeners alike. The beauty of Roses will enhance the look of your home year after year.
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