Turf Disease is a common problem that occurs in spring and summer and plagues lawn enthusiasts each season. Most people will run out to the local garden center and buy a bag (or two) of expensive fungicide to apply to the disease once it has started to take over. There is a better way.
There are a number of issues that contribute to the infestation of disease. By eliminating these problems, you can reduce the chance of the turf being attacked by disease greatly.
Water - watering deeply and less frequently, the roots of the grass will grow deep into the soil keeping drainage at its optimum. Watering often and for short periods of time keeps the roots at the surface creating a barrier that does not allow the water to drain properly. The root system also dries out fast as the top surface of the soil heats up from the sun quickly. When you water also matters greatly. The best time to water is in the early morning hours. This will allow the turf to absorb the water it can, and the water that is left on the surface will be evaporated by the sun. Watering in the late afternoon or evening is a big cause of disease. The lawn will absorb what it can, and what is left, stays in the thatch and on the blades of grass until the morning. This is like inviting disease over for dinner.
Aerate - Aerating the lawn brings necessary oxygen to the roots of the plants. It also reduces compaction of the soil allowing the roots to grow more easily and healthier. A gas powered lawn aerator, aerating shoes, and/or reducing foot traffic will help to reduce soil compaction.
Thatch- Thatch is a layer of dead matter that forms between the turf and the soil. This is where many diseases originate. Water cannot easily pass through thatch, therefore creating a wet layer at the base of the grass. Use of a Thatching machine or thatching rake will reduce the amount of thatch in the lawn. It will also help the turf to grow thicker and healthier. If you have heavy thatch and thin turf, once you thatch the lawn (Use a gas powered thatching machine, it will save you hours and hours of backbreaking work) be prepared to overseed the lawn. The best time to thatch and seed the lawn is in the fall.
Fertilizer - Fertilizing with high levels of nitrogen and using fertilizers that are not balanced, (ex: 32-4-8 or 25-3-5) can encourage lawn fungus. Use a fertilizer that has a slow release nitrogen in it, or better yet use a balanced organic fertilizer. Chemical based fertilizers generally have a high nitrogen content for that quick green effect. Although Nitrogen can be helpful to certain diseases is can make others grow and spread. Use of an organic fertilizer will give you the same dark green effect by using a balance of many nutrients. You will also fertilize less often with organic products, as they have a slower release.
Fungicides - Fungicides work best as a preventative. By applying a fungicide at a preventative rate (usually half) you can stop a problem in its early stages. When you have full blown disease in the turf many things occur. Disease is rampant, the turf is thin and stressed and now the fungicide must be applied at a curative rate (heavy rate) to stop the disease. Fungicides can actually hasten the return of new healthy grass.
Shade - Shady lawns have a tendency to stay wet for longer periods of time. Most turf grasses also require full sun. This is why it is so hard to get a nice thick turf in the shade. Thinning of large trees and shrubs will allow more light to the turf, helping to reduce disease.
By taking these preventative measures, the lawn will be healthier naturally. By implementing natural care practices we can reduce the amount of chemicals being applied to our lawns, reduce the leaching of these chemicals into our waterways and keep our hard earned money where it belongs, in the bank.
Vera Pappas is author of several articles on organic gardening and environmental issues and is owner of
Green Nation Gardens, suppliers of unique and eco-friendly garden supplies. Visit www.GreenNationGardens.com today.
Showing posts with label lawn and garden. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lawn and garden. Show all posts
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
Saturday, August 30, 2008
Fall Plantings
Soon it will be time for fall gardening. Removing the spent annuals, pulling the endless weeds, cultivating mulch and planting fall flowers.
Just because mums are available now (in August), does not necessarily mean you should start today. Growers push an early batch because the retailers have been sitting idle for most of July and August. There are early blooming varieties of Mums and Asters, but generally not this early.
Fall gardening is just that. It feels great to get outside when the temperatures are in the mid 70’s instead of the high 90’s. Fall is the best time to do many, many things in your garden.
Mulch - Fall is a great time to cultivate all the mulch in your beds. Over the season the mulch has a tendency to become compacted. The necessary water and air cannot get to the roots of the plants where it is needed. Use a 3 or 4 tined garden Hoe to turn the mulch.
Fertilizer and weed preventer - Once you have cultivated your mulch, a good organic fertilizer and a weed preventer, such as Cockadoodle-doo organic fertilizer and Cockadoodle-Doo corn gluten weed preventer is a great fertilizer for your plants and shrubs and a natural weed preventer to keep those winter weeds away.
Plantings - The fall season is the best time to plant trees and shrubs. As the temperatures are in a cooling pattern, trees and shrubs are less likely to go into shock after transplanting. They take root more easily, because the plant is not working so hard to keep the foliage from becoming stressed due to the heat. Many trees are dug in the fall. To get trees that have been freshly dug, go to your local nursery (not big box store) in October. Ask the nursery salesperson if they are getting any fresh trees for the fall. On the East Coast, trees normally get dug in October, depending on the weather. If all you can find are trees that were dug in the spring, ask for a discount if they are already not on sale. No Nursery wants to keep too much stock over the winter. There is too much loss. When you do plant shrubs and trees in the fall they still require water, mulch and TLC. Plant your fall flowers in mid to late September so the color lasts well into the fall. Plant your bulbs late in the fall, so they don’t start to grow. Tulips and Daffodils not to mention the dozens of other spring blooming bulbs will do best planted in early November once the temps are going to stay cold.
The Lawn - Fall is the absolute best time of year to overhaul the lawn. Get a soil test to check the Ph of the soil. Lime if necessary. Aerating and or thatching are best done in the fall. Aerating is the process of making holes in the lawn, about 2 inches deep, so water and air can get to the roots of the turf. Thatching is the process of getting rid of the “thatch” or dead build up that can choke out the good turf and prevent water and fertilizer from reaching the roots of the turf. Once you aerate or thatch the lawn, I would recommend over seeding and fertilizing. Thatching the lawn will leave bare or thin areas in the lawn, if you do not over seed, the weeds will just take over. Once you have over seeded and fertilized it is a good idea to get that seed covered, to keep it from drying out between watering and from becoming bird food. Straw is a good cover, except you need to pull it up. Peat moss is a good cover and you don’t have to pull it up. A reusable grass germinating mat is also great. The grass germinates faster because it generates warmth and allows water to flow through, yet still protecting it from critters. A good organic fertilizer will get the turf through the winter without becoming stressed.
Fall is also a great time to prune your trees and shrubs. Give them a good haircut so they keep their shape. When they flush out in the spring they will be nice and dense, not stringy.
Take time to enjoy your fall gardening. Working in the yard this time of year will ensure you of a beautiful and lush spring season.
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Causes of Turf Diseases
Turf Disease is a common problem that occurs in spring and summer and plagues lawn enthusiasts each season. Most people will run out to the local garden center and buy a bag (or two) of expensive fungicide to apply to the disease once it has started to take over. There is a better way.
There are a number of issues that contribute to the infestation of disease. By eliminating these problems, you can reduce the chance of the turf being attacked by disease greatly.
Water - watering deeply and less frequently, the roots of the grass will grow deep into the soil keeping drainage at its optimum. Watering often and for short periods of time keeps the roots at the surface creating a barrier that does not allow the water to drain properly. The root system also dries out fast as the top surface of the soil heats up from the sun quickly. When you water also matters greatly. The best time to water is in the early morning hours. This will allow the turf to absorb the water it can, an the water that is left on the surface will be evaporated by the sun. Watering in the late afternoon or evening is a big cause of disease. The lawn will absorb what it can, and what is left, stays in the thatch and on the blades of grass until the morning. This is like inviting disease over for dinner.
Aerate - Aerating the lawn brings necessary oxygen to the roots of the plants. It also reduces compaction of the soil allowing the roots to grow more easily and healthier. A gas powered lawn aerator, aerating shoes, and/or reducing foot traffic will help to reduce soil compaction.
Thatch- Thatch is a layer of dead matter that forms between the turf and the soil. This is where many diseases originate. Water cannot easily pass through thatch, therefore creating a wet layer at the base of the grass. Use of a Thatching machine or thatching rake will reduce the amount of thatch in the lawn. It will also help the turf to grow thicker and healthier. If you have heavy thatch and thin turf, once you thatch the lawn (Use a gas powered thatching machine, it will save you hours and hours of backbreaking work) be prepared to overseed the lawn. The best time to thatch and seed the lawn is in the fall.
Fertilizer - Fertilizing with high levels of nitrogen and using fertilizers that are not balanced, (ex: 32-4-8 or 25-3-5) can encourage lawn fungus. Use a fertilizer that has a slow release nitrogen in it, or better yet use a balanced organic fertilizer. Chemical based fertilizers generally have a high nitrogen content for that quick green effect. Use of a organic fertilizer will give you the same dark green effect by using a balance of many nutrients. You will also fertilize less often with organic products, as they have a slower release.
Fungicides - Fungicides work best as a preventative. By applying a fungicide at a preventative rate (usually half) you can stop a problem in its early stages. When you have full blown disease in the turf many things occur. Disease is rampant, the turf is thin and stressed and now the fungicide must be applied at a curative rate (heavy rate) to stop the disease. Fungicides can actually hasten the return of new healthy grass.
Shade - Shady lawns have a tendency to stay wet for longer periods of time. Most turf grasses also require full sun. This is why it is so hard to get a nice thick turf in the shade. Thinning of large trees and shrubs will allow more light to the turf, helping to reduce disease.
By taking these preventative measures, the lawn will be healthier naturally. By implementing natural care practices we can reduce the amount of chemicals being applied to our lawns, reduce the leaching of these chemicals into our waterways and keep our hard earned money where it belongs, in the bank.
There are a number of issues that contribute to the infestation of disease. By eliminating these problems, you can reduce the chance of the turf being attacked by disease greatly.
Water - watering deeply and less frequently, the roots of the grass will grow deep into the soil keeping drainage at its optimum. Watering often and for short periods of time keeps the roots at the surface creating a barrier that does not allow the water to drain properly. The root system also dries out fast as the top surface of the soil heats up from the sun quickly. When you water also matters greatly. The best time to water is in the early morning hours. This will allow the turf to absorb the water it can, an the water that is left on the surface will be evaporated by the sun. Watering in the late afternoon or evening is a big cause of disease. The lawn will absorb what it can, and what is left, stays in the thatch and on the blades of grass until the morning. This is like inviting disease over for dinner.
Aerate - Aerating the lawn brings necessary oxygen to the roots of the plants. It also reduces compaction of the soil allowing the roots to grow more easily and healthier. A gas powered lawn aerator, aerating shoes, and/or reducing foot traffic will help to reduce soil compaction.
Thatch- Thatch is a layer of dead matter that forms between the turf and the soil. This is where many diseases originate. Water cannot easily pass through thatch, therefore creating a wet layer at the base of the grass. Use of a Thatching machine or thatching rake will reduce the amount of thatch in the lawn. It will also help the turf to grow thicker and healthier. If you have heavy thatch and thin turf, once you thatch the lawn (Use a gas powered thatching machine, it will save you hours and hours of backbreaking work) be prepared to overseed the lawn. The best time to thatch and seed the lawn is in the fall.
Fertilizer - Fertilizing with high levels of nitrogen and using fertilizers that are not balanced, (ex: 32-4-8 or 25-3-5) can encourage lawn fungus. Use a fertilizer that has a slow release nitrogen in it, or better yet use a balanced organic fertilizer. Chemical based fertilizers generally have a high nitrogen content for that quick green effect. Use of a organic fertilizer will give you the same dark green effect by using a balance of many nutrients. You will also fertilize less often with organic products, as they have a slower release.
Fungicides - Fungicides work best as a preventative. By applying a fungicide at a preventative rate (usually half) you can stop a problem in its early stages. When you have full blown disease in the turf many things occur. Disease is rampant, the turf is thin and stressed and now the fungicide must be applied at a curative rate (heavy rate) to stop the disease. Fungicides can actually hasten the return of new healthy grass.
Shade - Shady lawns have a tendency to stay wet for longer periods of time. Most turf grasses also require full sun. This is why it is so hard to get a nice thick turf in the shade. Thinning of large trees and shrubs will allow more light to the turf, helping to reduce disease.
By taking these preventative measures, the lawn will be healthier naturally. By implementing natural care practices we can reduce the amount of chemicals being applied to our lawns, reduce the leaching of these chemicals into our waterways and keep our hard earned money where it belongs, in the bank.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
Lawn Maintenance
Maintaining a nice green yard can be a chore. Cutting, fertilizing, weed,insect and disease control, where does it end?
Maintaining your yard can be simple... Go Organic!
The use of organic products on the lawn take all the guess work out. By using natural products that come from the earth, you don't need a chemistry degree. Organic fertilizers are naturally balanced, easily absorbed and leave no residual chemicals that are harmful to people, pets, water or wildlife.
Compost is also another great way to keep your lawn healthy naturally. By spreading a thin layer of compost over the yard, you are putting back valuable, natural nutrients into the ground.
Using natural products on your lawn, the turf will become healthier and stronger, thereby becoming disease and insect resistant naturally. The healthier the turf the easier it is for the lawn to resist infestations. The lawn will also have less weeds. A strong thick turf will choke out weeds. If the grass is thick, the sun can't reach the weeds seeds, and they simply don't germinate.
Using a mulching lawn mower or a push reel mower is actually healthier for the lawn than bagging the grass. By leaving clippings (not when the grass is long) on the lawn, it acts as a natural fertilizer as the grass decomposes.
Turf that is strong and healthy will also be more drought resistant than weak, stressed turf.
Organic fertilizers generally need to be used less frequently than traditional chemical fertilizers and most can be applied anytime of the season, even in summer.
So, with that said, I've just cut down your lawn chores by about half. By using organic products, not only are you going to have a beautiful, lush lawn naturally...you will have the time to enjoy it!
Maintaining your yard can be simple... Go Organic!
The use of organic products on the lawn take all the guess work out. By using natural products that come from the earth, you don't need a chemistry degree. Organic fertilizers are naturally balanced, easily absorbed and leave no residual chemicals that are harmful to people, pets, water or wildlife.
Compost is also another great way to keep your lawn healthy naturally. By spreading a thin layer of compost over the yard, you are putting back valuable, natural nutrients into the ground.
Using natural products on your lawn, the turf will become healthier and stronger, thereby becoming disease and insect resistant naturally. The healthier the turf the easier it is for the lawn to resist infestations. The lawn will also have less weeds. A strong thick turf will choke out weeds. If the grass is thick, the sun can't reach the weeds seeds, and they simply don't germinate.
Using a mulching lawn mower or a push reel mower is actually healthier for the lawn than bagging the grass. By leaving clippings (not when the grass is long) on the lawn, it acts as a natural fertilizer as the grass decomposes.
Turf that is strong and healthy will also be more drought resistant than weak, stressed turf.
Organic fertilizers generally need to be used less frequently than traditional chemical fertilizers and most can be applied anytime of the season, even in summer.
So, with that said, I've just cut down your lawn chores by about half. By using organic products, not only are you going to have a beautiful, lush lawn naturally...you will have the time to enjoy it!
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Two of my favorite Fertilizers
When I come across a product I truly love and believe in I like to share it. Two of my favorite organic (that's all I use) fertilizers are Milorganite and Merrill's Compost Tea.
I love them because they are 100% Natural Organic Products. These companies each make a product that is organic and beneficial from waste.
Milorganite has been around for over 80 years and is a by-product of Milwaukee's water treatment system. It is safe to use in any climate at any time of the growing season...even drought.
Milorganite contains no salts (that can burn turf) so it doesn't even need to be watered in to work. It relies on natural microbes in the soil to break down the nutrients.
Milorganite not only contains Nitrogen and Phosphorous, it contains Calcium which is essential for nutrient uptake and Iron that makes everything a nice dark green. I use Milorganite on my lawn, trees, shrubs and perennials.
Merrill's Compost Tea is one of the most fantastic products I've ever used. They look like tea bags (don't drink them by mistake!). Keep an old gallon jug handy. Fill it up with tepid water and drop in one tea bag. Let it steep for an hour or so and then water your plants. I like to let my "tea" steep overnight. This is the best fertilizer for houseplants, annuals, roses and perennials. You can water as you normally would or foliar feed with a spray bottle. The first time I used this was in the middle of winter on my houseplants. The results were amazing! If they could have my plants would have jumped up and done a jig!
Both companies are committed to using natural resources and sustainable agriculture. These are truly earth friendly products. They are easy to use and inexpensive. The results will astound you!
I love them because they are 100% Natural Organic Products. These companies each make a product that is organic and beneficial from waste.
Milorganite has been around for over 80 years and is a by-product of Milwaukee's water treatment system. It is safe to use in any climate at any time of the growing season...even drought.
Milorganite contains no salts (that can burn turf) so it doesn't even need to be watered in to work. It relies on natural microbes in the soil to break down the nutrients.
Milorganite not only contains Nitrogen and Phosphorous, it contains Calcium which is essential for nutrient uptake and Iron that makes everything a nice dark green. I use Milorganite on my lawn, trees, shrubs and perennials.
Merrill's Compost Tea is one of the most fantastic products I've ever used. They look like tea bags (don't drink them by mistake!). Keep an old gallon jug handy. Fill it up with tepid water and drop in one tea bag. Let it steep for an hour or so and then water your plants. I like to let my "tea" steep overnight. This is the best fertilizer for houseplants, annuals, roses and perennials. You can water as you normally would or foliar feed with a spray bottle. The first time I used this was in the middle of winter on my houseplants. The results were amazing! If they could have my plants would have jumped up and done a jig!
Both companies are committed to using natural resources and sustainable agriculture. These are truly earth friendly products. They are easy to use and inexpensive. The results will astound you!
Monday, April 21, 2008
Allow Us to Introduce Ourselves
My name is Mark Pappas. My wife Vera and I began an Online Garden Supply Retail Store called "Green Nation Gardens". Having been in the gardening industry for some 25 years and practicing "green living" to a moderate extent, we decided to start a business that would make available to the general public high quality products at an affordable price. We also wanted products that are manufactured using materials and methods that have very little consequences to the environment. It is just as important to us that our products are produced and distributed through Fair Trade Practices giving all that put forth the labor and effort a fair wage.
So you see, is not only our intent to merely make money on the Internet, but to do it in such a way that everyone will benefit. In closing, Vera and I hope that you will visit Green Nation Gardens for your Home Gardening needs. We'd love for you to visit and give us your feedback about what products we might carry or how we could make it better. Bear in mind that we are a new business and still posting products. Have a Happy Day!
So you see, is not only our intent to merely make money on the Internet, but to do it in such a way that everyone will benefit. In closing, Vera and I hope that you will visit Green Nation Gardens for your Home Gardening needs. We'd love for you to visit and give us your feedback about what products we might carry or how we could make it better. Bear in mind that we are a new business and still posting products. Have a Happy Day!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
